After getting our Chilean exit stamps, we drove to the Bolivian border. I was told to get off first to take care of my visa. (I was the only one who had to pay the $135 entry fee.) When I got to the front of the line, the Bolivian official took my passport and put it in a drawer. Ok? I was told later that the tour guide would pick up my passport and then go with me to immigration in Uyuni - there's no infrastructure at the border to issue me a visa and pay the visa fee... (??) Our guide, Alberto, loaded our bags on top of our 4x4, a Toyota Pathfinder, and started to drive away. Luckily I reminded him about my passport - he had forgotten! I looked inside - no stamp. So, I was basically in Bolivia illegally until I paid the visa fee... no payment, no entry stamp. Visa issues to be continued....
It's hard to describe the wonders of Bolivia's landscape. We drove by white, green, and red lakes... We saw rock formations that had eroded into the shape of trees... We saw colors that could give Crayola a lesson or two... so unbelievable. I feel like I don't have the vocabulary to describe it all and pictures definitely, absolutely, don't do it justice. Dear reader, please go to Bolivia and see some of the most beautiful things you will ever see!
Laguna Colorada
Arbol de PiedraSo logistics-wise, twelve of us were traveling more or less together, split into two 4x4s. Of the 12 people, three were Brazilians, an American (me), and then a bunch of French people (well, one Belgian woman who spoke French). Car rides and meal times meant a lot of zoning out because they spoke French most of the time. Ugh. They were perfectly nice though and I'm currently on a bus with five of them traveling to Potosi. My one complaint though is that the girl next to me went super heavy on the perfume and it's giving me a headache. :(
Anyway, weather in the Bolivian desert is harsh, and the altitude doesnt help - we reached 5000 meters at one point, and spent our first night at an altitude of 4300 meters. Some people were feeling sick, even though coca leaves were on offer.
First night's accommodation's were in a shelter... six-person dorm, no heating, no showers. Toilet paper was BYOB - good thing I stole a roll from a hostel. The second night, we had a two-person room in a hostel, Alojamiento "La Roca" - still no toilet paper. This was great except there was one key to be shared between the two of us and at least three times, I went all the way up to find myself locked out. Meals, except for breakfast days two and three were really quite good. We even got wine with our dinner :)
Visa issues, revisited: I got kind of mad at Bolivia during the trip. I was supposed to take care of my visa right when I got into Uyuni, but we arrived later than expected. First I couldn't get a straight answer as to whether the office was open or not... Then the drivers were contradicting each other as to whether I should go immediately or go the next morning. Then the immigration office was closed when I went in the morning. I kept getting these wishy-washy answers... It closes at 6 or 630.... it opens at 8 or 830... different schedule that NO ONE knows on the weekend.... ugh! All I wanted to do was pay the stupid visa fee but I felt like the whole country was conspiring against me. Don't you want my money, Bolivia?! I had also heard of people getting stuck in Uyuni for like four days trying to get their visas and I really didn't have time for that.
Things eventually worked out and that cloud of worry and stress dissipated (at the exact moment the Bolivian official put a $135 sticker in my passport). I immediately became much more accepting of Bolivia :) In terms of time, lesson learned: have a half hour flexibility going both ways, depending on whether things are starting/opening or ending/closing. It's also not that no one knows the times, but that things open and close, start and finish at the whim of whoever might be working that day.
This post has been a lot about visa issues and tour logistics... but it's really the incredible beauty that I will remember. The last day was the trip highlight: the Salar de Uyuni. It's the world's largest salt flat and, I think, quite possibly the most beautiful place in the world (very very strong claim especially since I've been to Antarctica!). It's rainy season and so the clouds and mountains reflect on the 6 inches or so of water that rests over the salt flat. You have miles ahead of you of incredible whites, blues, and grays.
You feel truly blessed to be able to see everything around you. Gosh, how is it that I never heard of this place until I started researching what to do in Bolivia? I seriously recommend it to anyone who wants to see something truly breathtaking. Mom, Stacy, Theo, I thought of you especially when I was here... I hope to come back with you someday...
Sorry for all the visa/bureaucracy troubles, but glad Bolivia made up for it with its beauty. Miss you!
ReplyDelete